In September 2023 I headed to India for the World Coffee Conference in Bangalore the Tea and Coffee Expo in New Dehli. Between these events I was to visit coffee plantations in the mountains of Karnataka. I had a jam packed 3 weeks planned. I expected the trip to be an adventure, and it certainly was. An adventure like no other in amazing India, filled with the stuff you see in movies.

Unexpected side trip

When I arrived in India there was a problem with my visa. I had to book a flight to Sri Lanka so I could apply for a new visa. This resulted in a 4 day delay to my start in India, and it meant missing the World Coffee Expo in Bangalore and a huge rush to get through the coffee region (Karnataka) and then to the Coffee and Tea Expo in New Dehli. This was a rough start to the trip, but things where about to get even rougher.

First hotel in India

I arrived in Bangalore at dusk. I exited my taxi and a pack of crazy snarling barking dogs ran straight at me. Locals called them off. Scary! I got into the room and the block blacked out and people screamed. The atmosphere inside and outside the hotel was super edgy. I later realised my hotel was 1 km from a slum.

World Coffee Conference

Due to the visa issue I arrived a day late for the conference but I was kindly given a private tour. The organisers were so helpful when they heard of my visa saga. 45,000 attended the event but with the private tour there were no crowds for me.

Tuk tuks and taxis

Most non-Uber drivers tried to scam me. Taking me in circles, dropping me at commission shops, acting lost, demanding extra fees, etc. I had a tense encounter with one driver that ended with me finding my way to a remote bus stop. The local bus was already in motion so I sprinted and pulled myself onto the moving bus.

Danger danger

Cars can go any direction in any lane at any speed. Crossing a split lane highway at night, a car going the wrong direction (at near 60) swiped my clothing. I came within an inch of impact. I had another close call when I smashed my head on a low door frame and ended up on my back with a ringing head, a small cut and a graze.

Coffee plantations

Karnataka is the key region for Indian specialty Coffee Arabica. I really enjoyed my time in the mountains of Karnataka. A highlight was a stay on Kabbinahalli estate, spending time with farmers and their families. Pepper grew up the shade trees and eating fresh pepper was eye-opening, and eye-watering. Monkeys in the trees were amazing to watch as well. Gumtrees were a surprise. Gumtrees are now common across India. As expected the coffee was spectacular. An interesting thing to note is that in India it’s common to add 10-20% chicory to coffee, and then grind them together to get a mix of coffee and chicory grinds. The chicory works really well. I’m a fan.

Attempted mugging

Waiting for a bus at night, a dark figure left his motorbike running and walked up with his helmet still on and a hand in his right pocket and said “taxi.” I locked eyes with him and felt a very cold and very direct eye contact that I will never forget. I said “GO AWAY” then backed away towards a group of people. The man jumped back onto his bike and took off. Scary!

Getting smuggled

When my overnight bus didn’t turn up a driver offered to take me on his bus for cash. He offered space in the luggage compartment. With a 12 hour journey ahead I said “I can’t do it” and I was left on the side of road with a pack of dogs. I had to walk along a dark highway at night to safety. When I arrived at the closest hotel the door was chained. I was on a dark street in scary area with scary locals and scary dogs. Eventually a local helped me to contact the hotel so I could get inside and safe.

Most people are great

Smiles and waves were most often returned. Whenever help was needed locals were keen and ready to help. Young people where keen to practice their English, and I posed for hundreds of selfies with locals. They loved that I was from Australia and many of them wanted to talk about cricket. One day in a rural village I ended up with a crowd of 20 happy kids following me and causing traffic chaos.

Coffee for locals

The hot beverage of choice to most locals is chai prepared with butter milk and sugar. Coffee is also popular, and it’s also prepared with butter milk and sugar. It’s super sweet. Finding black coffee without sugar was really tricky. One day I needed a hit so desperately that I ate coffee grinds straight out of a bag. That’s coffee dedication…. or is it coffee addiction ? ;)

Food food food

The food in India is sensational. I have travelled to 25 countries and I put Indian food at the number 1 spot. Best food in the world. I love Indian food. To reduce the risk of food poisoning I ate vegetarian food for 3 weeks and I didn’t miss meat at all. The vegetarian food in India is insane.

Trains trains trains

Train travel is a highlight of India. I connected with new Indian friends during long journeys. However, trains can be tricky. On one crazy day I found myself on the wrong train, going the wrong direction. I got off and waited 6 hours for a train going the right direction. This time I was certain I was on the right train, but again I had it wrong. This one was going the right way, but it was the wrong train. I had to get off and wait for the my train (behind us) to catch up. I saw this train and it was already leaving so I ran and jumped on. Then I realised it was the wrong train (again) so I had to do a run and jump from the accelerating train, onto the platform below. I managed to stay on my feet, but only just. Jaws dropped on the platform. Real action movie stuff! After that I found the right train. Wow!

Coffee and Tea Expo

Due to the diversion to Sri Lanka, travel delays, travel challenges, and various health issues, I couldn’t make it to the Coffee and Tea Expo in New Dehli. That was disappointing but it wasn’t a complete loss. I did get quality time in Karnataka (the coffee growing region) and farm experiences cannot be matched by any expo.

Terrifying New Dehli

I arrived at New Dehli Railway Station late evening. Uber failed again, and as I don’t trust tuk tuk or taxi drivers I decided to walk to my hotel. I walked along an apocalyptic, stinky, litter lined street as I was hounded by drivers, beggars and scammers. The street was cloaked in a miasma of fumes. The air burnt the throat. It really did. I found the hotel down a dark creepy alleyway.

Attempted kidnapping

On my final day in New Dehli a driver dropped me in a difficult spot. I needed to get out. I searched for an Uber but every attempt ended in failure due to mobile data outages, so I accepted a ride from a tuk tuk driver. I jumped on board but soon realised he was taking me in the wrong direction, travelling fast towards a dangerous industrial area. The only explanation was that this was a kidnapping/mugging attempt so in the middle of an intersection I Ieaped from the moving tuk tuk, dodged traffic, ran into a crowd, and kept running. Like something out of a movie. After more failure with Uber, run-ins with various dark characters, and a warning from a local to “get out, it’s dangerous” I had to walk out of the area. On the way out the tuk tuk driver spotted me so I ran into another crowd and then into a building to hide out. More action movie stuff!

Street festival

One evening I followed my ears to a Hindu Street Festival. I joined in with the locals with a celebration, dancing away and posing for selfies. I took cover behind a car after being hit by firecrackers. Crazy fun. Crazy loud. Crazy energy.

Colourful India

These words provide just a glimpse of 3 amazing weeks. India is amazing. So much colour. So much energy. So many lovely people. Most people I met in India where great and I have connected with many new friends. I had plenty of challenges but the overall experience was amazing and the positives greatly outweighed the negatives. India makes you feel alive like no other place. I absolutely love India and hope to go back one day. I would love to visit the southern coffee plantations to see harvesting and processing of India’s famous Monsoon Malabar.

India - An Extreme Coffee Adventure